The Truth About Ponds, According to The Fish Lady
by Barbara Johnson
Before we can fully understand our ponds, we need to know more about the cycles, seasons, and balance, which are all controlled and guided by Mother Nature.
Ponds are not natural, we – mere mortals make them as “natural” as possible, and what they are is a re-circulating system with waste. In nature the water will eventually end up in the ocean, never to come back to its point of origin, this is not the case with ponds. |
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Ponds and their filtration systems, once in place – do not grow – they age and develop beneficial bacterial colonies, which take care of the nitrifying cycle and breakdown of waste. The flora and fauna on the other hand, keep evolving and can reach fairly large proportions. This simply means that with time the filter and pond might not be able to cope with the pond’s inhabitants as they will, as a result of their growth; produce more waste.
Depending on the time of year, this can be a problem and cause the pond to either loose clarity and/or develop some filamentous algae. Mother Nature is proficient, smart and forgiving…the algae is there to warn us that our system is fragile and presently “out of balance”. If the season is Winter and slowly moving onto Spring, the beneficial aerobic bacteria will be partially dormant below 50 degrees, it will not reproduce if at all and will not break down the organics as fast thus resulting in Mother Nature providing the pond with the algae to protect it from a complete collapse. The algae will grow according to the available food source, aiding in maintaining the fragile balance until the bacteria comes out of hibernation.
The biggest mistake we make as pond owners is to go after the algae (the effect) and not the cause(s) such as the season, environmental conditions, the state of the filter(s) and then some pond owners, resort to using algaecides or other toxic “UN-natural” products. If such products are used, yes they will kill or reduce the algae growth but as the algae dies off it will become a food source for new algae. This is dangerous as the algae is the temporary safety net until the bacteria wakes up, the water balance will be adversely affected and will endanger the fish. It is a temporary remedy and will become a vicious cycle…to repeat over and over until the bacteria finally wake up.
One partial solution is to not overfeed, clear the pond of excess organic matter, tend to the filter and add fresh nitrifying bacteria and/or enzymes if temperatures cooperate.
Some pond owners invest large amounts in the purchase of Ultra Violet units; they are, in my humble opinion, a “band-aid” solution. The U.V will clear the water and prevent pea soup algae blooms, but, do not get tricked into thinking that clear water is healthy water.
Water has numerous beneficial micro-organisms such as diatoms, worms, ciliates, crustaceans, to name a few, and it is my firm belief that these organisms are essential to good water balance and support of the precious bacterial development. UV sterilizes and nukes enough of these organisms to render the water lifeless. Take a moment an observe water, it has the full spectrum of colors in it, it shimmers and glows. To me it is magical to watch water flow over rocks into a pond; with UV you loose that glow and water becomes dull.
The brownish slim coating which contains bacterial colonies and organisms will have a much harder time adhering to the pond surface and it is algae that will developed instead.
Please note: This is my personal opinion and experience, many other pond professionals will disagree with my theory.
It is essential to ALWAYS provide a good source of oxygen such as waterfalls and/or fountains and NEVER to stop the pump(s) for any length of time other than routine maintenance!
We live in an earthquake zone. Part of preparedness should include a plan for the pond - in my case, I had a solar system installed and I recommend that each household consider alternative means of power generation. In the event of a black out, there is little we can do to assist fish in distress as we are not the Power Company and do not have either solar pumps or sufficient generators on hand for all.
Ponds are a puzzle and every piece, as small as it may be, connects to the next and then the next…if one element is out of balance, a domino effect will occur. It is never just one thing that makes a pond less perfect, it is the combination of all the elements. In nature, it is all about BALANCE.
As people, we have very short memories: why is it that we cannot remember the past year’s experience during the season’s changes? Rain, wind and sun affect our ponds; night and day, as well and the chemistry of our ponds, fluctuates up and down at all times.
During the day, plants create oxygen and at night they expire carbon dioxide, this will cause the pond’s PH to lower and affect the nitrifying cycle as well. Oxygen from waterfalls and/or air pumps is more important at night, so if you were to turn down (or off) a system, do it during the day. But actually, best to just plain leave it on at all times.
Outside conditions directly influence our ponds, when it rains it rains into the pond. Rainwater is soft water thus our PH will drop, garden run-off can also be detrimental as it carries fertilizer and other contaminants, a reason why the pond should have higher walls, edges, or drains to prevent such introduction.
Pond water quality is dependent on a stable PH, water hardness, and the right amount of carbonates, high oxygen content, and minimum to no ammonia, nitrite and nitrate levels. Our fish are influenced by all these parameters and so are their colors, growth, overall health and life!
It is crucial to perform water changes on a regular basis: recommended amounts of 10% weekly or 20% bi-weekly, with most ponds this is performed when back-washing or flushing filters and topping off the pond with fresh CONDITIONED tap water.
Our tap water contains chlorine, chloramines and heavy metals as well as many other toxic contaminants. Fish are exposed to these dangerous chemicals, which if left untreated will eventually kill them. Fish are strong and resilient to a point! It is our responsibility to make sure we treat the in-coming tap water. Water changes also remove “aged water”, organics, and replenish the pond water with fresh minerals.
I often refer to water as being “female” - she likes relationships: If a pond is built with either a liner, fiberglass or sprayed, water will not be very happy as the material is inert and gives nothing in return. Ponds that function best are generally made out of concrete or the like. The advantage is the regular “leaching” out of alkalinity, which supports the beneficial bacteria also helps in preventing PH fluctuations as the hardness and carbonate level is consistent.
If the pond is a liner then the water must support itself the best it can with the aide of in-coming oxygen from waterfall and/or fountain, plants, and perhaps just a few rocks in a waterfall. These ponds are fragile and generally have many more issues with algae when seasons change as well as PH crashes.
We have found that the addition of crushed oyster shell in bags, placed in the waterfall will help tremendously.
Another key factor is to NEVER scrub a pond’s floor or walls. The brownish coating which develops with time is the beneficial bacteria (slime coating) as well as precious micro organisms and that is where they do some of their best work. Of course bacteria is in the filter(s) and actually it is everywhere that water is, so I personally do not worry about disrupting bacteria in a filter from time to time as I know that the pond’s bacterial population will re-colonize fast enough. Again, it is according to the season and time of year. For this reason, on occasion, additional bacteria are added to a system to give it a little “jump start”.
Temperature is another factor that will modify the water chemistry, the warmer the water the fewer parts per million (PPM) of oxygen in the water; the cooler the water, the higher the oxygen content will be.
Waterfalls, fountains and venturi jets provide great oxygenation and aid in releasing carbon dioxide. Oxygen is essential in maintaining the aerobic (nitrifying) bacterial colonies. Without it, the bacteria becomes anaerobic and pockets of gases (hydrogen sulfite) can form in the pond. When it mixes in the water column it will adversely affect the fish and can kill them. When the aerobic bacteria count is low from either the season or lack of oxygen, all other water parameters enter the danger zone, ammonia, nitrite and nitrates levels rise as the nitrifying cycle is disrupted. Fish will die!
Water changes are then essential - and of course, water conditioner will, and should, be used. If fish appear sluggish, we recommend the use of crushed solar rock salt at a reason of 1 PPM (1 Lbs per 100 gls of pond water), depending on the situation* (with caution one can use higher amounts).
*We recommend 4 PPM at the introduction of new fish which must have followed a quarantine protocol.
To maintain life in a pond and to enjoy the fish for many years to come, one must be a juggler and tightrope walker! There is no final and best way of doing it. Every pond is unique. But what they all have in common is: they all provide us with pleasure. I still believe it is the best “urban” therapy!
Planning is a key factor in having a happy pond. Have an emergency plan for your fish in case of an earthquake or power outage. Many have secondary generators, solar system and the likes, arrange for the pond pump(s) to receive power from either source as well; always have one or two battery back-up air pumps with sufficient tubing and air stones which you can then place in the pond in time of need. Hydrogen peroxide is also a great emergency product: you may add 8 oz. per 1000 gls of pond water, mix in the pond and of course, avoid pouring in directly onto the fish.
Remember:
Buyer always beware. We live in dangerous fish times - know your breeder and dealer. Ask many, many questions when purchasing your next finny friend; it's better to be safe than very sorry: KHV (Koi Herpes Virus) is real and will wipe out an entire collection, there is no known cure, yet!
Parasites are also rampant. For this reason it is primordial that ALL fish be quarantined and that you know their country of provenance as well as breeder and the prophylactic treatments they were subjected to if they were.
I have met serious Koi hobbyists who have no problem dropping several thousands of dollars on one fish and then feed them absolute junk food! Not only will the fish loose coloration and health, but it is their life span that is tremendously reduced. Buy a good food and keep it air-tight and out of the heat. Koi are omnivore, they love foraging and if it were up to them, they'd rather eat bugs, worms and crustaceans than fish meal-based food. This is why after years of research we have come to select EA food for all our Koi. It is referred to as the “Ancestral diet” of the Koi (carp). It is truly amazing how healthier and vibrant the Koi are since we switched to this food versus regular fish meal-based food.
Poorly balanced or too rich of a diet will cause fish to become fat, dis-proportioned and at risk for tumors and blockages with the potential of having problems during spawning time.
Food should be fresh, as vitamins will oxidize. Read the label and buy just enough food for one month.
Simple rules to remember:
• Ponds are a fish toilet! (Graphic, but true.)
• Perform partial regular water changes by cleaning and/or back-washing filters.
• Always condition in-coming tap water or have established means to filter tap water.
• Never walk away or get distracted when filling the pond with a garden hose. Fish will die if exposed to too much chlorinated water as well as go into temperature shock and the complete loss of biologically balanced water.
• Feed a quality food which the fish can breakdown and easily digest.
• Keep the number of fish reasonable and in proportion to the filter(s) and size of the pond. Remember that they grow!
• Do not overfeed, and feed soft fruits and steamed veggies as well: grapefruit, orange, watermelon, cantaloupe, steamed broccoli and peas. They love to nibble.
• There are many diseases out there, so QUARANTINE or ask questions FIRST before adding any fish to your existing collection. (It only takes one fish and he/she doesn’t have to be big!) KHV can be compared to AIDS.
• Be reasonable and understand that Nature is the boss here and regardless of what we want as simple mortals, our hands are tied and we cannot change the seasons nor the weather.
• Ponds are constantly changing, and like us, they age and the fish get larger, but not the pond or the equipment.
• Ponds are an expense! They must run 24/7 in order for the pieces of the puzzle to come together and give us that picture perfect environment.
Variable speed pumps are available and will save you from high energy bill.
I hope this little pond “bible” will help you better understand the intricacies of your pond and how your finny friends cope on a day-to-day basis.
I have had many of my fish for over 30 years and through much trial and error and deaths, I have come to the conclusion that it can only work well if we absolutely pay attention and listen to Mother Nature! Evolution and change, we must go with the flow. (No pun intended here).
Enjoy your fish as much as we do, and thank you for your patronage.
Best fishes as always,
Barbara D. Johnson / The Fish Lady
The Fish Lady, Inc. EST. 1985
Depending on the time of year, this can be a problem and cause the pond to either loose clarity and/or develop some filamentous algae. Mother Nature is proficient, smart and forgiving…the algae is there to warn us that our system is fragile and presently “out of balance”. If the season is Winter and slowly moving onto Spring, the beneficial aerobic bacteria will be partially dormant below 50 degrees, it will not reproduce if at all and will not break down the organics as fast thus resulting in Mother Nature providing the pond with the algae to protect it from a complete collapse. The algae will grow according to the available food source, aiding in maintaining the fragile balance until the bacteria comes out of hibernation.
The biggest mistake we make as pond owners is to go after the algae (the effect) and not the cause(s) such as the season, environmental conditions, the state of the filter(s) and then some pond owners, resort to using algaecides or other toxic “UN-natural” products. If such products are used, yes they will kill or reduce the algae growth but as the algae dies off it will become a food source for new algae. This is dangerous as the algae is the temporary safety net until the bacteria wakes up, the water balance will be adversely affected and will endanger the fish. It is a temporary remedy and will become a vicious cycle…to repeat over and over until the bacteria finally wake up.
One partial solution is to not overfeed, clear the pond of excess organic matter, tend to the filter and add fresh nitrifying bacteria and/or enzymes if temperatures cooperate.
Some pond owners invest large amounts in the purchase of Ultra Violet units; they are, in my humble opinion, a “band-aid” solution. The U.V will clear the water and prevent pea soup algae blooms, but, do not get tricked into thinking that clear water is healthy water.
Water has numerous beneficial micro-organisms such as diatoms, worms, ciliates, crustaceans, to name a few, and it is my firm belief that these organisms are essential to good water balance and support of the precious bacterial development. UV sterilizes and nukes enough of these organisms to render the water lifeless. Take a moment an observe water, it has the full spectrum of colors in it, it shimmers and glows. To me it is magical to watch water flow over rocks into a pond; with UV you loose that glow and water becomes dull.
The brownish slim coating which contains bacterial colonies and organisms will have a much harder time adhering to the pond surface and it is algae that will developed instead.
Please note: This is my personal opinion and experience, many other pond professionals will disagree with my theory.
It is essential to ALWAYS provide a good source of oxygen such as waterfalls and/or fountains and NEVER to stop the pump(s) for any length of time other than routine maintenance!
We live in an earthquake zone. Part of preparedness should include a plan for the pond - in my case, I had a solar system installed and I recommend that each household consider alternative means of power generation. In the event of a black out, there is little we can do to assist fish in distress as we are not the Power Company and do not have either solar pumps or sufficient generators on hand for all.
Ponds are a puzzle and every piece, as small as it may be, connects to the next and then the next…if one element is out of balance, a domino effect will occur. It is never just one thing that makes a pond less perfect, it is the combination of all the elements. In nature, it is all about BALANCE.
As people, we have very short memories: why is it that we cannot remember the past year’s experience during the season’s changes? Rain, wind and sun affect our ponds; night and day, as well and the chemistry of our ponds, fluctuates up and down at all times.
During the day, plants create oxygen and at night they expire carbon dioxide, this will cause the pond’s PH to lower and affect the nitrifying cycle as well. Oxygen from waterfalls and/or air pumps is more important at night, so if you were to turn down (or off) a system, do it during the day. But actually, best to just plain leave it on at all times.
Outside conditions directly influence our ponds, when it rains it rains into the pond. Rainwater is soft water thus our PH will drop, garden run-off can also be detrimental as it carries fertilizer and other contaminants, a reason why the pond should have higher walls, edges, or drains to prevent such introduction.
Pond water quality is dependent on a stable PH, water hardness, and the right amount of carbonates, high oxygen content, and minimum to no ammonia, nitrite and nitrate levels. Our fish are influenced by all these parameters and so are their colors, growth, overall health and life!
It is crucial to perform water changes on a regular basis: recommended amounts of 10% weekly or 20% bi-weekly, with most ponds this is performed when back-washing or flushing filters and topping off the pond with fresh CONDITIONED tap water.
Our tap water contains chlorine, chloramines and heavy metals as well as many other toxic contaminants. Fish are exposed to these dangerous chemicals, which if left untreated will eventually kill them. Fish are strong and resilient to a point! It is our responsibility to make sure we treat the in-coming tap water. Water changes also remove “aged water”, organics, and replenish the pond water with fresh minerals.
I often refer to water as being “female” - she likes relationships: If a pond is built with either a liner, fiberglass or sprayed, water will not be very happy as the material is inert and gives nothing in return. Ponds that function best are generally made out of concrete or the like. The advantage is the regular “leaching” out of alkalinity, which supports the beneficial bacteria also helps in preventing PH fluctuations as the hardness and carbonate level is consistent.
If the pond is a liner then the water must support itself the best it can with the aide of in-coming oxygen from waterfall and/or fountain, plants, and perhaps just a few rocks in a waterfall. These ponds are fragile and generally have many more issues with algae when seasons change as well as PH crashes.
We have found that the addition of crushed oyster shell in bags, placed in the waterfall will help tremendously.
Another key factor is to NEVER scrub a pond’s floor or walls. The brownish coating which develops with time is the beneficial bacteria (slime coating) as well as precious micro organisms and that is where they do some of their best work. Of course bacteria is in the filter(s) and actually it is everywhere that water is, so I personally do not worry about disrupting bacteria in a filter from time to time as I know that the pond’s bacterial population will re-colonize fast enough. Again, it is according to the season and time of year. For this reason, on occasion, additional bacteria are added to a system to give it a little “jump start”.
Temperature is another factor that will modify the water chemistry, the warmer the water the fewer parts per million (PPM) of oxygen in the water; the cooler the water, the higher the oxygen content will be.
Waterfalls, fountains and venturi jets provide great oxygenation and aid in releasing carbon dioxide. Oxygen is essential in maintaining the aerobic (nitrifying) bacterial colonies. Without it, the bacteria becomes anaerobic and pockets of gases (hydrogen sulfite) can form in the pond. When it mixes in the water column it will adversely affect the fish and can kill them. When the aerobic bacteria count is low from either the season or lack of oxygen, all other water parameters enter the danger zone, ammonia, nitrite and nitrates levels rise as the nitrifying cycle is disrupted. Fish will die!
Water changes are then essential - and of course, water conditioner will, and should, be used. If fish appear sluggish, we recommend the use of crushed solar rock salt at a reason of 1 PPM (1 Lbs per 100 gls of pond water), depending on the situation* (with caution one can use higher amounts).
*We recommend 4 PPM at the introduction of new fish which must have followed a quarantine protocol.
To maintain life in a pond and to enjoy the fish for many years to come, one must be a juggler and tightrope walker! There is no final and best way of doing it. Every pond is unique. But what they all have in common is: they all provide us with pleasure. I still believe it is the best “urban” therapy!
Planning is a key factor in having a happy pond. Have an emergency plan for your fish in case of an earthquake or power outage. Many have secondary generators, solar system and the likes, arrange for the pond pump(s) to receive power from either source as well; always have one or two battery back-up air pumps with sufficient tubing and air stones which you can then place in the pond in time of need. Hydrogen peroxide is also a great emergency product: you may add 8 oz. per 1000 gls of pond water, mix in the pond and of course, avoid pouring in directly onto the fish.
Remember:
Buyer always beware. We live in dangerous fish times - know your breeder and dealer. Ask many, many questions when purchasing your next finny friend; it's better to be safe than very sorry: KHV (Koi Herpes Virus) is real and will wipe out an entire collection, there is no known cure, yet!
Parasites are also rampant. For this reason it is primordial that ALL fish be quarantined and that you know their country of provenance as well as breeder and the prophylactic treatments they were subjected to if they were.
I have met serious Koi hobbyists who have no problem dropping several thousands of dollars on one fish and then feed them absolute junk food! Not only will the fish loose coloration and health, but it is their life span that is tremendously reduced. Buy a good food and keep it air-tight and out of the heat. Koi are omnivore, they love foraging and if it were up to them, they'd rather eat bugs, worms and crustaceans than fish meal-based food. This is why after years of research we have come to select EA food for all our Koi. It is referred to as the “Ancestral diet” of the Koi (carp). It is truly amazing how healthier and vibrant the Koi are since we switched to this food versus regular fish meal-based food.
Poorly balanced or too rich of a diet will cause fish to become fat, dis-proportioned and at risk for tumors and blockages with the potential of having problems during spawning time.
Food should be fresh, as vitamins will oxidize. Read the label and buy just enough food for one month.
Simple rules to remember:
• Ponds are a fish toilet! (Graphic, but true.)
• Perform partial regular water changes by cleaning and/or back-washing filters.
• Always condition in-coming tap water or have established means to filter tap water.
• Never walk away or get distracted when filling the pond with a garden hose. Fish will die if exposed to too much chlorinated water as well as go into temperature shock and the complete loss of biologically balanced water.
• Feed a quality food which the fish can breakdown and easily digest.
• Keep the number of fish reasonable and in proportion to the filter(s) and size of the pond. Remember that they grow!
• Do not overfeed, and feed soft fruits and steamed veggies as well: grapefruit, orange, watermelon, cantaloupe, steamed broccoli and peas. They love to nibble.
• There are many diseases out there, so QUARANTINE or ask questions FIRST before adding any fish to your existing collection. (It only takes one fish and he/she doesn’t have to be big!) KHV can be compared to AIDS.
• Be reasonable and understand that Nature is the boss here and regardless of what we want as simple mortals, our hands are tied and we cannot change the seasons nor the weather.
• Ponds are constantly changing, and like us, they age and the fish get larger, but not the pond or the equipment.
• Ponds are an expense! They must run 24/7 in order for the pieces of the puzzle to come together and give us that picture perfect environment.
Variable speed pumps are available and will save you from high energy bill.
I hope this little pond “bible” will help you better understand the intricacies of your pond and how your finny friends cope on a day-to-day basis.
I have had many of my fish for over 30 years and through much trial and error and deaths, I have come to the conclusion that it can only work well if we absolutely pay attention and listen to Mother Nature! Evolution and change, we must go with the flow. (No pun intended here).
Enjoy your fish as much as we do, and thank you for your patronage.
Best fishes as always,
Barbara D. Johnson / The Fish Lady
The Fish Lady, Inc. EST. 1985
Certified by:
• The University of Georgia – Veterinary Department in Koi Health Management
• The University of North Carolina – Veterinary Department in Fish Health Management |
Member of:
• Zen Nippon Airinkai So. Cal Koi Club Chapter of 29 years
• The Professional Pond Builders Association, Inc. • The North American Water Garden Society • The National Association of Pond Professionals • The International Landscapers Alliance |
Supporter of:
• KHV Research Project
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